Bird and Wildlife Team | The best birding and wildlife watching tours in Sri Lanka and tours in India

TOUR REPORTS 2008

Doreen Ang, 28 Burgundy Drive , Singapore 658831

Hi all,

Am just back from a 10-day Endemic Tour to Sri Lanka. Mr Deepal Warakagoda (aka Mr Serendib) was kind enough to lead me and together with Lim Kim Seng, we had great birding. This was my 14th overseas birding trip in the past 2 years across 8 countries and so far hands down, has got to be the best in terms of guide, results, accommodation and synergy. For birders who have been to Sri Lanka, imagine what it's like to enjoy good, long views of the Serendib Scops-owl, Indian Scops-owl, Spot-bellied Eagle-owl, Brown Fish-owl, Chestnut-backed Owlet and a Sri Lanka Frogmouth in BROAD DAYLIGHT? Scoped views too except for the Serendib Scops-owl which was barely 10 metres from us! ... not many birders have seen this rare new discovery and we're lucky to probably be the first two Singaporeans to have succeeded, all made possible and many thanks to Deepal! Together we had good views of all the 33 Sri Lanka endemic birds by the 8th day! (34, if you include the Sri Lanka Hill Munia Lonchura kelaarti.)

Our tour covered most of the usually visited places excluding North, East and South-east Sri Lanka. Sites visited were the Kelani Valley Forest Reserve (wet zone remnant lowland forest) in Kithulgala, Sinharaja Forest Reserve (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) near Ratnapura, Udawalawe National Park (dry zone scrub and grassland), Victoria Park in Nuwara Eliya (hill station), Horton Plains National Park (2000m forest and grassland plateau situated 15km south of Nuwara Eliya), Udawattakelle Sanctuary (forest) in Kandy, Chilaw Sandspit + one other wetland north of Negombo. It rained very heavily on our last afternoon at Sinharaja and we birded with brollies in Victoria Park and Horton Plains National Park. Kim Seng's two pairs of shoes gave way due to the wet grounds and he was down to slippers from Negombo onwards. Leech bites - it's 5-2 (5 to Kim Seng and 2 to Doreen). Screaming works!

Here is a brief itinerary and a small selection of the birds we saw:

DAY 01 - 05 Jan 08: arrived at Bandaranaiyake International Airport at 0815 hrs on SQ 466. 3-hour drive to Kithulgala as we birded along the way. Two nights stay in a/c deluxe rooms at Kithulgala Rest House overlooking the Kelani River (of the 'Bridge over River Kwai' fame). To reach the Kelani Valley Forest Reserve, we had to cross the river in a dugout canoe - simply love the adventure! We even crossed the famed Bridge!

Sri Lanka Junglefowl (1m & 2f tog), Sri Lanka (Pompadour) Green Pigeon, Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot, Layard's Parakeet, Green-billed Coucal, Red-faced Malkoha, Serendib Scops-owl, Chestnut-backed Owlet, Malabar Trogon, Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill, Yellow-fronted Barbet, Sri Lanka (Crimson-fronted) Small Barbet, Crimson-backed Flameback, Indian Pitta, Sri Lanka (Red-rumped) Swallow, Black-capped Bulbul, Spot-winged Thrush, Brown-breasted Flycatcher, Indian Blue Robin, Sri Lanka Scimitar-babbler, Orange-billed Babbler, Legge's Flowerpecker, Sri Lanka Crested Drongo & Sri Lanka Blue Magpie.

DAY 03 - 07 Jan 08: birded near Kithulgala Rest House in the morning before drive to Sinharaja. 3 nights stay at the Blue Magpie Lodge which was 20 mins away from the Sinharaja Forest Reserve Gate. Solar-powered private hot shower. Power generator switched off between 2200hrs - 0500hrs. A bit basic for me, but the delicious Lanka sambal and great hospitality made up for it.

Crested Goshawk, Black eagle, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Mountain Hawk-eagle, Sri Lanka Spurfowl (m & f), Sri Lanka (Scaly) Thrush, Ashy-headed Laughingthrush, Brown-capped Babbler, Sri Lanka Hill Munia, White-faced Starling, Sri Lanka Myna & Sri Lanka Frogmouth.

DAY 06 - 10 Jan 08: after breakfast, we left for Embilipitiya. Overnight stay at the luxurious Centauria Tourist Hotel overlooking a lake (such a welcome contrast with a/c, tv, private balcony and hairdryer at last!). In the afternoon, we did a little safari in the Udawalawa National Park in an open jeep.

Booted Eagle, Indian Peafowl, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Sirkeer Malkoha, Blue-faced Malkoha, Pied Cuckoo, Grey-bellied Cuckoo, Indian Scops-owl, Malabar Pied Hornbill & White-browed Bulbul.

DAY 07 - 11 Jan 08: took 5-1/2 hours to reach hilly Nuwara Eliya. Two nights stay at the Galway Forest Lodge. We birded at Victoria Park and Horton Plains National Park. Deepal surprised us one evening by inviting 5 of his colleagues/friends to join us for dinner, one of whom was Lester Perera.

Slaty-legged Crake, Sri Lanka Wood Pigeon, Hill (Pacific) Swallow, Sri Lanka (Common) Wood-shrike, Yellow-eared Bulbul, Indian Blackbird, Pied Thrush, Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush, Kashmir Flycatcher (m & f), Dull Blue Flycatcher, Sri Lanka Bush-warbler & Sri Lanka White-eye. A pair of Marshall's Iora observed at a special site.

DAY 09 - 13 Jan 08: drove to Kandy. Overnight stay at Hotel Suisse, a typical colonial building. Visited nearby Udawattakelle Sanctuary.

Brown Fish Owl (a pair), White-rumped Shama & Lesser Hill Myna..

DAY 10 - 14 Jan 08: drove to Chilaw Sandspit and one other wetland north of Negombo. Overnight at Brown's Beach Hotel.

Cotton Teal, Garganey, Montagu's Harrier, Grey Francolin, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Little Stint, Indian Stone Curlew, Great Thick-knee, 7 species of terns, Ashy-crowned Finch-Lark, Oriental Skylark, Richard's and Paddyfield Pipits & Hume's Whitethroat.

Mammals seen included the Sri Lanka Giant, India Palm, Sri Lanka Jungle and Dusky-striped Jungle Squirrels, Ruddy & Brown Mongoose, Toque Macaque, Tufted Grey Langur, Purple-faced Leaf Monkey, Chital, Domestic Water Buffalo, Asian Elephant and oh my, a slimy Giant Earthworm.

We flew home the following morning on SQ 467 at 0930 hrs ... pleased with our total count of 228 bird species - 227 seen + 1 heard only (Brown Hawk-owl). For the record, Kim Seng has now completed all the 12 Malkohas in the world and is quite happy with his 76 lifers. I have not tallied mine yet, there's time. Right now, my mind is racing on where to go next .........

Do contact me please if any of you would like to see all the endemics in Sri Lanka with Deepal. He is your best bet, for sure.

Happy birding,
Doreen Ang
28 Burgundy Drive
Singapore 658831

Email: namaquad@yahoo.com.sg
Mobile: +65 9862 9978

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SRI LANKA 2008 TOUR REPORT

Frank G. Witebsky

2008 Sri Lanka Sunbird tour participant

Attempting to capture the excitement, the beauty, indeed the sublimity of our Sri Lanka experience in a few words is a daunting challenge. Yes, we saw all the currently-recognized endemic species and nearly all the endemic subspecies. And many were seen repetitively and extremely well. Great, of course – but there was far more to the tour than mere numbers can convey. Birding began in the attractive garden of our hotel near the airport, providing an introduction to some of the more common species. By early afternoon we were on our way to Kitulgala. By the time we got to bed, we had seen at least eight of Sri Lanka’s endemic birds, including several Layard’s Parakeets and a quite cooperative Green-billed Coucal. The next day we were in the Kitulgala Forest, where we had sublime views of a pair of Crimson-backed Woodpeckers - for me one of the highlights of the trip (and of my life!). (For another equally magnificent woodpecker, the White-naped – another trip and life highlight - we had to wait until somewhat later.) In this Forest, Deepal managed to locate a Serendib Scops Owl, a lovely and distinctive bird that we could all observe for as long as we wished – and in broad daylight! Spotting that bird seemed a nearly miraculous feat; I’m sure I could have stood within five feet of the bird for hours and never have found it myself. Among other wonders of the day were prolonged studies of a Chestnut-backed Owlet, and the first of several Spot-winged Thrushes, certainly one of the most appealing members of its large family. The next several days were spent in the Ratnapoura area, birding on the hotel grounds and in the Sinharaja Forest. One evening we had an incredible encounter with a pair of Sri Lanka Spurfowl walking on the road in front of our vehicle (yes, everyone saw them), and numerous encounters with glowing male (and intricately-patterned but hardly-glowing female) Sri Lanka Junglefowl. Should I say anything about the tiny Sri Lanka Frogmouth other than that it was sitting on its nest low over the road, entrancing in the morning light, I might not be believed. And as for Sri Lanka Magpies – on first getting a really good look at one of these large, brilliant beasts, incredibly patterned in blue, brown, red, and white, it’s hard to believe one is seeing a real bird, and not having a hallucination induced by inadvertent consumption of some psychedelic agent. Here also we had fine views of several (yes, several) Ceylon Scaly Thrushes. And of course there were also bulbuls and babblers - one of my special favorites being the Ceylon Scimitar Babbler. I might note that I’ve been fortunate enough to see quite a few trogons – but the Malabar Trogon is one of the loveliest I’ve ever encountered. Next it was on to Embilipitiya, where there were of course more wonderful birds, as well as numerous mammals, including many great (big) elephants. Then we headed for Tissa, where for me the major highlight was the one White-naped Woodpecker (a male) that we saw on the tour. A close second here were several nearby Small Pratincoles. At the park in Nuwara Eliya, despite the rain, there were two more gorgeous highlights, the abominably-named Dull Blue Flycatcher (“Glowing Blue Flycatcher” would be more accurate), and the quintessentially exquisite Kashmir Flycatcher. Let me also note that, while the beauty of Yellow-eared Bulbuls is quite obvious, fully appreciating the subtle tones of a Sri Lanka Bush Warbler requires a really good view – which we certainly had. Also in the Horton Plains, by the side of the road, in the open, during the morning, at eye level – a prolonged, unforgettable view of a male of the shy and usually crepuscular Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush. The last bird I’ll mention is the Indian Pitta; if you haven’s seen it, you need to, and if you already have, I could hardly believe that you wouldn’t want to see it again.
Of course, there was lots more. There were fascinating tours of the Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy, and of the vast, ancient ruins at Polonnaruwa; it would be unforgiveable not to allow for time at these sites. And quite likely you’ve little or no idea of all that’s involved in the manufacture of tea – but you can learn in Sri Lanka. Probably you already know this, but the whole country is beautiful. Our accommodations were all fine, and there was more than enough good food to satisfy any palette. (Concentrating on food, though, could be something of a problem – as when a Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher was flitting about just outside the dining room.) Finally, the guides. They are what in my opinion make or break any tour. Deepal Warakagoda, our main guide, was unqualifiedly superb; in addition to his expertise regarding every feather and chirp of Sri Lanka birds, he is also a font of knowledge on the culture of the country. His assistant, Tharanga Herath, was a delightful and eagle-eyed wonder as well, in addition to being a superb artist. Uditha Hettige was also one of our guides for part of the tour – and not only also an astoundingly good leader as well, but in addition a gifted photographer and artist. Possibly you suspect I have exaggerated a bit here and there. I’d suggest you put me to the test, and – if you possibly can - Go! See for yourself!

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Indian Trip Reports Lester

Northern India And Himalayan Foothills
!8th January To 3rd February 2008

Bharatpur, Sultanpur Bund Bharata, Ramnagar, Kumeria,Corbett N.P, Naini tal and and Sat tal.

374 species of birds including over 20 Indian courser's and Small-billed Scaly-Thrush at Bharatpur. Ibisbill , wallcreper, Long-billed Thrush and many northern Indian specials including Cheer Pheasant. Three Tiger sightings at Corbett National Park.

Just Tiger Tour
Kanha N.P and extension to Bharatpur , Ranthambore,
8th February to 23rd February

216 species of birds including Himalayan Ruby-throat which was the highlight. 21 Species of Mammals were observed.
Fourteen tiger sightings and two leopard sightings at Kanha N.P, while one tiger sighting at Ranthambhore and one leopard sighting of mother and three cubs.

Just Tiger Tour
Kanha N.P and extension to Chambal and Bharatpur
7th March to 22nd March

266 species of birds Including Himalayan Ruby-throat and Siberian Ruby-throat at the same spot in Kanha N.P Other interesting observations were Indian Skimmers, Sand Lark, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, and Black-bellied Terns at Chambal.

Nineteen mammal species were observed off which included 11 tiger sightings and 4 Leopard sightings .

Just Tiger Tour
Kanha N.P and extension to Bharatpur N.P and Ranthambore N.P
21st March to 04th April

241 species of birds including excellent views of Blue-bearded Bee-eater, and Chestnut Bittern at Kanha While a White-browed Bushchat and an Eastern Orphean Warbler at Ranthambore

Nine Tiger sightings at Kanha N.P and three at Ranthambore N.P. while the three leopard sightings were at Kanha N.P

Just Tiger Tour
Kanha N.P
O4st April to 16th April

166 species of birds including 30 plus White-rumped Vultures in Kanha N.P.
Eight Tiger sightings and two leopard sightings.

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